To route your dishwasher drain hose depends in part on code requirements. In California, for instance, an inspector could have held your home builder to the letter of the California Plumbing Code, part 807.4, which needs an association to an air-gap on the discharge side of the device. An air-gap, usually installed in the counter-top adjacent to the sink, consists of a steel cylindrical cap using a fast-link or barb fitting for the dishwasher drain hose as well as a bar-b outlet to the garbage disposal or a “Y” fitting on the sink drain. The fitting consists of spiral ridges to grip a hose that is clamped.

Unplug the dishwasher or flip off the circuit breaker. Double-check that electricity to the dishwasher was cut by keeping a non-contact circuit tester close to the wiring supporting the kick plate in the bottom-front of the dishwasher.

Unscrew the kick plate’s two screws, usually above or below the plate or occasionally accessed from inside the dishwasher. Get the outlet nozzle on the pump below the lower spray arm of the dishwasher, using the drain hose.

Squeeze the arms of the wire clamp to remove the dishwasher drain hose that is outdated or unscrew a screw-type hose clamp.

A hose clamp the drain hose and clamp over the conclusion of a drain hose. Route the hose during the round hole drilled next to the the sink; if none is present, cut a hole using a drill equipped using a 1 1/2 inch hole saw. Bring the conclusion of the hose toward the arm of the airgap.

A hose clamp another end of the hose on. Wiggle the hose on the arm of the airgap, created to prevent water from backing to the water supply that is clear, and screw the clamp. Run a rubber hose between the air gap’s outlet as well as the rubbish disposal or drain “Y” fitting, clamping it in place.

Replace the kick-plate. Turn on the circuit-breaker if required, and plugin the dishwasher. Test the dishwasher operates without water backups or leaks.